Prices listed are pretty accurate and broken down in great detail, but there are some bikes that can cost more or cost less depending on condition, accessories etc...

I am going to put this in right near the top!!!

Although care is taken to not scratch anything, it is possible your wheel gets a mark from the tire machine, or if you have some stubborn corroded, rusted or otherwise stuck part that needs to be extracted to do the work, yep mars or scratch could happen. Hell, even the clip on wheel weights leave marks on the wheels. as do the stick on ones as I will no longer even try to clean that off, you can clean your own wheels!

If you are so particular about your bike this could be an issue.....MOVE ALONG, the drop off form you sign will state you accept that damage can happen and that only you are responsible!

I cannot know every problem that can arise beforehand and while minor ones are simply fixed and moved past, some bikes have more major issues that will cost more; broken bolts, rusty bolts, dirty carburetors, broken fuel mixture or throttle body sync screws, major oil leaks, just vast amounts of dirt and bugs etc........

And some motorcycles have accessories added that simply make the work take longer and that time will be added to your bill!

And yes, if your motorcycle smells like an ashtray- I do charge more!- the longer I have to be up close and personal with the bike the more it is going to cost. ie, a tire change is relatively quick, little $ added, a tune up service is lots of hours right next to the ashtray- much more added. I hate the smell of smoke, do yourself a favor and quit smoking and powerwash your motorcycle!

(contact will be made for expensive issues- but you know if you have accessories like canyon cages or craptastic underglows with poorly routed wiring, or no connectors to unplug etc... BAM- more money)

As always the best mode of contact is simply send me a detailed email. Describing the year make and model, what you want done, add in a couple quality photos if you feel like it may help, then of course if you have a timeframe to keep in- that does help in the planning and scheduling process.

But, two, three even four weeks out is common for much of the riding season sans;

tire changes, oil changes, fork seals- which those 3 can typically be in an out within a day or two, given parts on hand. (ie- make an appointment in the next couple days and get it back in hours on that day)

There is some sample pricing at the very bottom of the page of some past projects that were not as represented when arrived and needed much more...

But this era of covid and post covid has parts deliveries extremely slow and some of the parts that I would normally see in days is taking weeks- thus slowing turn around on those jobs.

Minor Tune (oem recommended tune up service, valve adjustment)

Shim under bucket typically runs $495 (Most 2000+ year bikes & most sport bikes fall into this price range)

There are exceptions... ie- (labor pricing only, parts can range from $50 to well over $200 depending on the need and the bike)

V-star 1300 @ ...................................................................................................................... $575

C50 Boulevard @ ................................................................................................................. $595

VTX1800 and every other motorcycle with no proper fuel shut off- @.................................. $650

Royal Star Venture, ST1100/1300, 09^ R1, Roadliner 1700/1800/1900 @ .......................... $695

ST1100 with belt adjustment and/or new belt installed @ .................................................... $1,000

09 and newer ZX6R @ ......................................................................................................... $575

2011^ ZX10R, CB919, RC51, VFR800 (no vtech) all @ ..................................................... $595

Concours1400, ZX14, CBR919, CBR954, CBR1000RR and FJR1300 all @ ...................... $685

C14 with canyon cages--- no matter what tune up service......................... ADD $50 to the listed pricing

GL1800/1800ABS, ST1300 (cam chain tensioners and amount of removal is horrendous) @ ..................................... $995

Honda V-tech VFR's are @ ........................................................................................................................................... $1,500

While not typical to work on many BMW or Indian motorcycles, the K1600 and the Indians with its shim is the bucket design and cramped quarters for the ABS module etc, and will take about 10-14 days as the new shims do need to be ordered from BMW or Polaris ! @ ................................................................................................................................................................... $1250

Some shim under bucket are slightly cheaper....ie

~ SV650, 08^ Ninja 250, 300, 400, and Triumph Speed triple @ ..........................................$450

Shim on top of bucket, screw type adjusters and hydraulic lifter bikes (and the few slide over rocker arm bikes) typically being in the ..................................................................................................................................................~$440 range

Most of the single cylinder 4 stroke dirt bikes are.................................................................... $195 (KLR650 is @ $250)

This is time consuming and on average I often spend 10 hours or more to do one bike, to make sure it is properly done and to my exacting standards. ( 8 hrs is most of the $495 and less motorcycles, some of these are about 16-18 hours)

(generalization of the time, about most of the cruisers and sportbikes. This is total time on the entire tune up not just the valve adjustment service, since there is much more to a tune up than simply adjusting the valves!- and yep flat rate may be less, but I know you cannot get even close to the same at flat rate!!)

This service includes precise valve adjustment, exacting throttle body synchronization/carburetor synchronization, TPS adjustment, oil/filter change, air filter cleaning or replacing, new properly gapped spark plugs installed, stick coils cleaned and tested, lever pivot pins are disassembled-cleaned and properly lubed, cable adjustments and power lubing those cables, drive chain/belt adjustment or final drive fluid changed, brake fluid flushed and pads checked, tire air pressures set and tread depth inspected, lights all checked, charging system and battery tested and more. The service manual checklist is completed and then some, insuring that your motorcycle will perform at its best.

There is no "close enough" attitude here at Lloyd's. I either do it correctly and to the most exacting standards I can or I won't do it at all !

Parts are extra on all services, these are simply labor prices.

MINIMUM RECOMMENDED VALVE ADJUSTMENT SERVICE

Much like the oem recommended service @ 7,500// 14,000// 16,000 miles or whatever your bike states for the valve adjustment service.

~This is minus the oil change, brake flush, pivot pin lubing, chain adjustment/final drive fluid change, tire pressures etc.~

What is done; Precise adjustment of the valve clearance, throttle position sensor adjustment, and throttle body or carburetor synchronization, plugs, stick coil cleaning/testing, brake pad inspection, lights and charging system checked, cable adjustments and other sensor checks and adjustments are also done.

Example pricing is:

Most bikes this service will be $50 less than the oem listed service above (exception all those dirtbike 4 stroke singles, $20 less than the price as above)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

This service is geared towards the people that do most of their own maintenance, but are not set up for or confident in adjusting the valves and synchronizing throttle bodies/carburetors and testing all those electric sensors.

This service still takes on average about 6 hours with a few bikes still in that 7-8 hour range, only the easiest of adjustments and maintenance items are eliminated from the OEM recommended Valve adjustment service tune up... This service is geared towards those who still like to do many of the easier to do maintenance tasks themself but still want to make sure the tune up procedures are done professionally and precisely.

MAJOR SERVICE TUNE

7,500//14,000//16,000 mile and over 5 years old service and so much more depending on make and model.

If you look in the service manual and do everything listed regardless of mileage plus more, then you have an idea of how thorough this service is. But it really is even more than all that. Go to the pictures page and you can view just how extensive this service really is. ~ see list below~

Typically this service runs in the range for the majority of bikes....................................................................$1,100-$1200

And a few examples of more expensive;

ST1100/1300, GL1800 @ .................................................................................................................................$1,700

Royal Star Venture/Tour Deluxe, VTX1800 & every motorcycle without a proper fuel shut off.....................$1,350

BMW K1600GT/GTL, Indian & 09^ R1 @ .....................................................................................................$1,700

Concours1400 ABS and pre 09 R1@ ................................................................................................................$1,550

ST1100 with belt adjustment and/or replacement @ .........................................................................................$1,700

Concours 1400, ZX14, 2011^ ZX10R ABS, FJR1300, RC51, CBR919RR, 954RR, 1000RR..........................$1,500

2011^ ZX10R, 08^ 1000RR, V-Star 1300...........................................................................................................$1,300

Stratoliner, Venture Royal, M109, GL1500, pre 2010 ZX10R, 09-12 ZX6R, 13^ ZX6R @.............................$1,300

VFR with V-tech @ ............................................................................................................................................$2,300

And a few examples of less expensive;

Older shadows, GS550-1150, ZX-11/ ZZR1200, Vulcan 1500, Nighthawk/CB 550/650/700S/750/900/1000......$995

KZ 305/400/440, Ninja 250R/300/400/500R, CBR250R/300/500, Nighthawk/CB 250/450, SV650....................$975

The hydraulic lifter Honda Cb's...............................................................................................................................$895

The Hydraulic lifter GL1200....................................................................................................................................$945

Several other hydraulic lifter motorcycles and screw type adjuster motorcycles may well be in the $875 -$925 range

Here is a list of approximately what all is done as the list varies slightly between models. This service is the most complete care you can get. I do the entire list in the service manual and so much more.

Valve adjustment: I have over 13,000 OEM shims on hand to make them all perfect. No "close-enough" attitude. This is the same professional precision I bring to every valve adjustment I do. Each valve will be adjusted to within .0005" of what clearance is desired, generally dead center in the allowable range specified by the manufacturer.

Inspect: Cam lobes, cam chain, cam sprockets and cam chain tensioner, always cleaning the tensioner for close inspection, and numerous tensioners get the shaft polished.

Throttle body or carburetor synchronization are adjusted to as close as perfect as I can get them. often this means cleaning the ilde air screws adjuster screws on FI bikes

Idle fuel mixture is adjusted whenever possible. on carbs, I will drill the safety cap to access the adjuster if needed...

Suspension linkages are disassembled, cleaned, inspected and lubed.

Swing arm is removed and the bearings are cleaned and lubed as is the swing arm pivot bolt.

Steering head bearings removed, (lower bearing is left on the triple stem, unless replacing the bearings) cleaned, properly lubed with waterproof grease and adjusted- some bikes is it more prudent to just replace with good tapered roller bearings.

Fork oil is changed, including the damper rod/cartridge, which means complete disassembly and cleaning, new seals and often new bushings will be installed.

All pivot bushings including the shifter pedal, rear brake pedal, brake and clutch lever pivot pins and bushings, shifter linkage arm and rear brake arm are removed cleaned and properly lubed.

Foot pegs are removed, cleaned and pins lubed.

All the cables; throttle, clutch, choke, speedometer and exhaust servo, if so equipped, are pressure lubed and adjusted.

Brake pad pins are removed, cleaned and lubed. Albeit very lightly. The brake pistons are also cleaned as are the sealed slider pins on such calipers

Sensors are electronically checked and adjusted whenever needed/possible. (there are about 10 on modern bikes)

TPS (throttle position sensor) adjusted.

Exhaust valve, if so equipped, is adjusted and these cables are power lubed as well.

Counter balancer(s) adjustment when applicable.

Wheels are removed for proper checking and lubricating of all the wheel bearings. Some have metal shields and are not accessible, but the vast majority are rubber shielded and serviceable.

Axles are cleaned and lubed.

Brake/clutch fluids are flushed completely. Brake caliper and axle pinch bolts are all anti seized and properly torqued as applicable.

Electrical connectors are checked, cleaned and protected. The charging system connections are cleaned and output is also inspected.

Oil and filter are changed.

Spark plugs are changed with properly gapped plugs.

Air filter is cleaned/replaced as needed.

Battery is removed and serviced. Non-sealed batteries may be topped off with distilled water.

Whichever final drive system your bike has, it is taken care of. Chain is cleaned, adjusted and lubed or the final drive fluid is changed. The splines on shaft drive bikes are cleaned and lubed. The drive belt is inspected and adjusted/replaced if so warranted.

Oil pressure and fuel pressure/output is checked when possible.

All the lights, horn etc. are all checked as well.

Fuel filter cleaned or replaced when applicable, including the in tank fuel pump screen when applicable

You of course get a whole slew of pictures of the work as well. The list is long and varies slightly between different bikes but it is very extensive, not to mention time consuming. At some point during this service your motorcycle will basically be a frame and an engine- it is that comprehensive of service. On average this takes about 15-20 hours to do one bike.

Fuel injectors; these can be flow tested and cleaned for approximately $150 additional to any tune up cost. Unfortunately this takes about 5-7 day turn around time as I send these out to an injector specialist shop in Florida. (pro flow injection technologies is my prefferred go to)

While I can use a cheaper "injector cleaner kit" which basically sprays some aerosol cleaner through the injector, I have found this method to be woefully inadequate at actually cleaning the injectors and does nothing at all for balancing them so they are all the same flow rate and spray pattern. and without the same flow rate and spray pattern your engine will not perform at its best.

On carbureted bikes, you can typically add in a full carburetor cleaning to any tune up for $100 off the listed carburetor cleaning price below. (in the carburetor cleaning section)-- in some cases this is absolutely necessary.

This is an excellent choice for the first time service, the 5+-year-old bike that hasn't seen its service yet. Or that "used" bike that you aren't quite sure what has truly been serviced. This is an intensive, no holds barred service. Everything on the bike that is adjustable or lubeable is done. Which every bike will need sooner or later. If you go to the pictures page and view them you will see numerous bikes with dry steering head bearings, corroded shifter linkages, rusty pivot bushings, worn suspension linkages etc. You will not regret "upgrading" to the most extensive service you can find. Not only will your ride quality and enjoyment of motorcycling be enough improved to make you wonder why you waited so long to do this but everything on the bike will work better and last longer. Your motorcycle will have never worked better.

FORK SEALS AND SUSPENSION WORK

On the bike pricing; replacing fork seals for the pair (I will only do both at once or I will not do either).................. $235

some bikes do take longer and are harder, thus more expensive;

------ie- Victory Vision/Cross Country, Royal Star Venture, PC800 & several dirt bikes etc @ ............................... $295

------GL1100/1200/1500/1800 are @ .......................................................................................................................$400

(oil seals, dust seals, fork oil and bushings........ PARTS, and I always use OEM hard parts (seals and bushings) and Maxima fork oil..... Parts are extra...... pretty typical to be $65 to $150 in the above parts for most bikes)

Off the bike pricing; generally this runs $120-$140 for the pair.... Not many would cost more, a few may cost less

Fork oil change takes nearly the same time as fork seal replacement, so prices are very similar (save perhaps $30 labor at most)

AK20 install in Big Piston Forks............... $450 (the shoe has to come off the inner tube) this would include the typical fork seals, oil, bushings replacement all being changed at the same time- but does not include any parts. parts on this job is about $1300 currently (spring 2023)

Non Big Piston Forks for Ak20 install....... $300

Revalving rebound and compression damping valves is in the $500 range for most cartridge forks- it requires the cartridge to come apart and then the valves to come off and out.

of course, these are labor prices only.............

Adding new fork springs at this time or replacing bushings (highly recommended, especially if over 30,000 miles) only add the cost of those parts. no additional labor changes-- and even if you are lower miles, you may want to get a good set of springs that are the correct spring rate for you!

springs can be ~$130

bushings can be ~ $50

fork seal sets can be ~$50

dust seal sets can be ~$40

fork oil is typically ~$15-$20

Ak20's can be ~$1100-$1300

Penske double clicker shock~ $1000- triple clickers ~$1300 - piggyback resevoir instead of remote resevoir adds about $200

Suspension tuning..........

New components (ie Racetech springs and gold valves, Axxion valves, Traxxion omni springs, Penske shock, Ohlins shock etc are all available)

Shock rebuilds available..... on all aftermarket shocks and some oem shocks (I am shipping these to Traxxion and not doing them in house anymore but I can change springs still in house)

If I have to clean up all the rotor buttons and all the drilled holes in the rotors because they are filled with oil, brake dust and road grime to get your brake pads to actually bed in and function at 100%........ it takes about an hour to clean that all up thoroughly. $85

CARBURETOR CLEANING / Jetting

--CARBURETOR CLEANING--again this varies by bike, but expect anything more than 7 years old to need all new o-rings at a minimum.

Those 15+ year old bikes will be getting complete rebuild kits, which can run from $20-$60 per carburetor, OEM only !!!

I completely disassemble the carburetor assemblies and all the brass parts go into a chemical soaker, the aluminum bodies and plastic parts go into an ultrasonic water based solution for cleaning, and then everything is finally washed clean and blown out with compressed air. Then once truly clean parts are fully inspected before assembly. Float heights set, new o-rings installed

Once reassembled and re-installed on the bike, there are a couple adjustments made ie...idle mixture and carburetor synchronization, TPS if so equipped, cables are power lubed and adjusted as well.

This can run as low as $250 for many 2 cylinder bikes out there (08-12 ninja 250 not included)- $250

and some of the single cylinder dirt bikes it is only ...........................................................................$250

4cyl Goldwings and ST1100's, .........................................................................................................$480

6 cyl Goldwings, Ventures, and V-four bikes ....................................................................................$580

Most inline 4 cylinder bikes are......................................................................................................... $400

This is usually a 3-5 day deal. But if parts need to be ordered, it will likely take longer. I will look over the rest of the bike as well.

(Vacuum hose replacement on a GL1500 runs over (as of 2017 pricing) $100 in parts-there are dozens of them- and an extra $195 in labor to install them all)

This would be a good time to do some jetting, as most bikes performance and fun factor is greatly improved by a little jetting changes and since the carburetors will already be off and fully disassembled, these changes won't cost nearly as much as they would if it was a stand alone jetting install.

An update on this....I have ran into no less than 4 bikes where parts are listed as available from the manufacturer but they took close to or over a month to receive. All of these bikes were 80's/90's vintage, except one 2002 Suzuki Bandit1200S---just as heads up for restoring that era of bike, and parts pricing since the scamdemic have about doubled on many parts sadly.

TIRE CHANGES

See the parts pricing page for hundreds of tires on hand.

and then this disclaimer-

just like at the top of the page, I am not cleaning your wheels for you, especially not glue residue nor excessive dirt nor chain lube. the tire machine despite having plastic feet and head may well leave marks on your rim. Care is taken but it can happen

--TIRE CHANGES--varies by bike (see *** below)

--OFF THE BIKE-----$25.00 fronts--$30.00 rears each for mounting and balancing on *many* bikes----- $50/set done at same time

--ON THE BIKE------$45.00 fronts--$50.00 rears mounting and balancing for *many* bikes----------------- $90/set done at same time

IF YOU CHOOSE TO LEAVE YOUR OLD TIRES HERE, THERE WILL BE A $4.00 PER TIRE CHARGE. That is the cost of disposal & recycling.

***There are a few models that I can quote right now as more money for mounting and balancing--

Some exceptions to the above on the bike pricing guideline;

-- Goldwing 1100/1200/1500 rears-$110, fronts-$80.00.......................................$180/set

-- Goldwing 1800 rears @ $60, fronts @ $80.......................................................$130/set

-- ST1100/1300 rears-$90 .................................................................................... $130/set

-- VTX1800 rears-$100.00..................................................................................... $140/set

-- V-Star1300/1100/650 rears-$110.00...................................................................$145/set

-- VN1500(Vulcan) rears-$110.00...........................................................................$145/set

-- VN1500 (Drifter) rears- $100.00, fronts-$50.00 (need tubes).............................$140/set

-- Stratoliner/Roadstar/Royalstar rears-$110.00......................................................$145/set

-- Intruder/Boulevard rears-$100.00.........................................................................$140/set

-- Victory rears-$110.00............................................................................................$145/set

-- VTR250/PC800 front-$75.00.................................................................................$110/set

-- Concours1000 rears-$75.00..................................................................................$110/set

-- BMW R1250RT rears- $80.00...............................................................................$120/set

-- BMW K1600 series .............................................................................................. $110/set

-- Harley Davidson dressers and tube type--front-$90.00 or Rears $130.00...........$200/set.......... $125 for loose wheels

-- Harley Davidson non baggers and no tubes--front $70.00 or rear $110.00..........$160/set.......... $80 for loose wheels

-- Shadow 750 with tubes & exhaust removal required-- rear $120.........................$150/set

-- most cruiser style bikes not listed above will be- $85/rear or .............................. $120/set

--Suzuki Burgman 400---------- rear is $90............................................................... $130/set

-- TUBLISS tire system to install new.....................................(off bike).................... $90/set ......... on bike is $150/set

-- TUBLISS tire system already installed and change tires.........(off bike)............... $125/set ....... on bike is $185

-- Tube type wheels (dirt bike type with a single rim lock).......(off bike)................... $100/set .........on bike is $140

-- Tube type street bike no bead locks off bike ($75/set)....... new tubes is highly recommended and strongly advised!

-- Shinko/Kenda/Conti tires going on.........ADD $?X? a set to above pricing... and zero warranty or guarantee they are round or will balance!- I highly suggest buying better tires!!! I despise these tires as more than half of them I have installed have been out of round or taken large quantities of weight or they simply refuse to bead up and need the donut and the airblaster and no motorcycle tire worth anything should ever be this way!!! however there have been some mount and balance fairly well---your risk here.....

-- There are some motorcycles with aftermarket exhaust systems that then require their removal to access the rear axle, where stock exhaust did not. There will be extra charge for this regardless what above pricing says (it may be $20 extra or it may be $50 extra depending on the time it takes to do so. @ the $85/hr rate)

................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................ Chain / Belt adjustment and brake pads/shoe checks are all included in the service. Shaft drive bikes, the splines are properly lubricated, chain drive bikes the chain is lubricated and adjusted for proper free play.

................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. These can be a while you wait (when scheduling permits) or at least a same day deal, there is reading materials and a chair outside, if you so choose to wait. It can be a 1+ hour process for sport bikes and 2+ even 3 hours for some cruisers and touring bikes. So it really is best to leave somewhere and come back later!

You will not be in the garage watching and slowing down the process. (I just work better and faster without an audience and without distractions. Plus there is less chances of any mistakes from distractions if you are not there trying to clean your swing arm or the back of your engine and asking questions/being in the way!)

There may be other bikes that are in the more expensive category, I just haven't run into one recently enough to remember.

TPMS batteries. CR2032HR/CR2032 for the pre 2013 Concours 1400 and all Goldwing 1800's I have on hand at all times. these are typically reading 3.25v-3.31v brand new. I will replace the soldered in batteries if you request. It typically runs an additional $75 for parts and labor when done with tire change (for the pair). I have seen numerous 4-7 yr bikes already with low batteries (2.9v or less). This is relatively easy to do once apart, but some of these newer variants (2013^? C14) -the batteries are epoxied in- and my time costs too much and the risk of board damage working blind is too high to be worth digging it all out compared to the cost of new sensors, so I do not replace the batteries on any epoxied in sensors.

STEERING HEAD BEARINGS ADJUSTMENT AND/OR INSTALLATION

--STEERING HEAD BEARING INSTALL/ADJUSTMENT--This varies greatly from bike to bike, a simple adjustment on some bikes is a 20 minute deal, while on others it can be a 2+ hour ordeal to adjust, Installation on some "standards" take about 90 minutes, while some cruisers, touring and sport bikes take 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours.

(VN1500 is one of those about 45 minutes to an hour bikes for adjustment, thus $85-$100

most sport bikes are about 45 minutes to adjust (some of the current models with OE dampers take about an hour just to adjust), while many are about 2.5 hours to install new, thus...... $85 adjust and $250 install labor accordingly

and GL1800 is about 3.5 hours to adjust and 6.0 hours to install new... $300 and $550 accordingly

2012^ ZX10R with ABS is about 3.5 hours to replace and requires bleeding the brakes, thus $300 charge

Royal Star Venture is well over 5 hours total to install new or adjust properly as the fairing and more have to be removed.. $450+/-

So these are priced at time x hourly rate......... if it takes 2 hourss it is $200

The bearings run about $45.00 for most bikes and you may as well upgrade to tapered rollers as they last longer and work smoother, often times for less money than OE ball bearings, but when properly installed lubed and adjusted either is a fine choice.

CHAIN AND SPROCKET INSTALLATION

--CHAIN AND SPROCKET INSTALLATION--

$90 install for most bikes

Kits are available from $180-$249 depending on model and what specific sprockets/chain you desire. This is usually a 3 hour or less turnaround deal-- I do have many sprocket and chain set ups in stock.

Lloyd's has done a change over in brands and is stocking Supersprox sprockets for most models and can get them here in a day or two (usually) for the ones I do not stock.

These go very nicely with the EK line of chains

I am also stocking Motul chain lube, the best chain lube out there IME

WHEEL BEARINGS

--WHEEL BEARING INSTALLATION--generally at $50 per wheel (off the bike)--

Some wheel bearings require a blind hole puller. This is a robust all steel tool, and depsite care taken it can leave marks on your wheel or brake rotor. I am not replacing your rotor or your wheel if it happens!

Bikes like;

the Royal Star Venture with disc covers that encompass the entire seal and all that needs to be removed to get to the bearings in front wheel to install new bearings (wheel off the bike pricing).............. $100 labor charge

GL1800 with the double double bearings......................... front wheel only obviously, ............ $150 labor charge (loose wheel)

Old school BMW (like R75 series) and the old old HD's with tapered roller wheel bearings..... to remove and clean and repack is the same cost as remove and replace @ $150 labor cost for the pair once the wheels are off the motorcycle

I do keep about 10 sizes of the most popular bearings on hand, they start at $10 per, a few are closer to $20, but most are 10-12

MISCELLANEOUS SERVICE INFORMATION

-- Oil/filter Changes;

~Most bikes will be ............................................................................................................ @ $40 + parts ... (there are some exceptions)

~Harley 3 hole oil/filter change. Primary drive, engine oil change and transmission oil change.................. @ $90 + parts

~Yamaha XV1700/1800/1900 with the 5+qt capacity filled via dry sump......................................................@ $75 + parts

~The V-stars requiring exhaust removal to get to the oil filter........................................................................@ $125 + parts

~ GL1800 with DCT so an extra drain plug and extra filter and a relearn process....................................... @ $75 + parts

~ XV Virago's.................................................................................................................................................@ $75 + parts

There may well be other bikes I am missing that cost more- but these come to mind right now

Maxima Pro plus JASO MA motorcycle oil (100% ester based synthetic)-- 10W30, 10W40 or 20W50 is currently $12.75/qt and is the prefferred oil installed in all bikes unless you as the customer specify otherwise

Maxima premium oil runs about $10/qt and is a petroleum based very good JASO MA rated motorcycle oil as the alternative

OEM filters whenever possible will be installed with very few exceptions (very rare occassion non oem will go on/in)-- as a side note, for whatever reason oem honda and yamaha spin on filters have increased in cost by more than $5 per filter in 2021 ^- thanks scamdemic, so most of the oem jap filters are $12-$16, triumph, indian, victory, BMW etc vary up to $20

-- Brake and clutch fluid flush... plus clean and lube the lever pivots and the bushings................... @ $100 + parts.. (there are some exceptions)-

if no hydraulic clutch and just flush front and rear brakes and lube the pivots and bushings ..... @ $65 + parts

RBF600 brake fluid is used in 99% of what I see, it is at $19/pint......so about $13 in a 2 system flush, all $19 in a 3 system flush

I do offer a brake and clutch flush along with oil/filter change service that also encompasses checking tire pressures, cables, levers, chain adjustment and more........... "spring prep"........ This service runs $219.00 all in on most/many bikes (parts and labor)

--Electrical problems--diagnostic time is @ $100/hour with a $50 minimum charge.

--Air filter replacement on the current crop of GL1800 (Honda buried that thing deep) ... $350 plus the filter

--Engine removal and re-installation is a minimum of $400 but some bikes will be upwards of $750 (most touring bikes)...ST1100/1300 and all Goldwings will be in the $1500+ range... not a typo- I simply loathe these bikes for pulling engines and putting them back in, so if I have to do these I am making sure I am paid well for my time, effort and knowledge.

--WITH MOST EVERY SERVICE BIKE-- I will be checking and adjusting air pressure, check the oil level and give the bike a look over for any hazards or obvious needed repairs. Usually I will adjust the throttle cables and clutch lever free play when they are readily accessible. (I do offer safety inspections if you want something more in depth, or have certain concerns)

--ACCESSORIES INSTALLATION--from power commanders to exhausts, well I am mechanical service oriented not, "hey look at my coolness" so I have little interest in adding HID's, underglows or LED's etc... but if you need some frame sliders or rearsets or a new windshield, grips or levers etc....well I do those plenty often

--CRASH DAMAGE-- hopefully you won't need this service. But I do offer insurance estimates and have a good relationship with all the insurance carriers to make the process smooth and as painless as can be for you. Typically this takes more than a couple hours- $100.00 is the minimum charge (insurance typically pays for this, even though they always balk at it) I can always save you time and money over the dealers in this area, on both parts and labor. and trusting the insurance company to do your estimate is akin to trusting the lion not to attack you when you walk up on its kill ....... Of course in the end you get to choose what to spend the money on for repairs. But if you choose to have panels repaired and painted- you will need to find your bodyshop and get parts back in a timely manner. I am not a painter or a body repair man.

--TOWING SERVICE-- again hopefully you won't need this service, but it does happen. I have a $100 minimum charge for pick-up, unless the service LABOR bill is going to exceed $500.00 then I may charge less or even waive the fee all together depending on your location and timing... I also do on occasion allow you to take my motorcycle specific enclosed trailer and use it to bring your own motorcycle here, free of charge for repeat customers as long as you don't damage the trailer.- ask please, I would prefer you use my trailer with everything you need as opposed to how a few bikes have arrived on their sides with no tie downs! you can always just go to Uhaul and get their motorcycle trailer as well- cheap and easy enough. I do not have endless open time for such things and 99% of the time from April until October I will say NO, as I am simply too busy. The UHAUL trailer is cheap and easy.

--WINTER STORAGE--(November 1-April 1) sport bikes, standards and dirt bikes run $300.00 for the season and other bikes are on a quote basis. Touring bikes and the big cruisers are typically at $350.00. This will include all the prep for winter, battery kept fully charged and getting it ready for riding in the spring. Bikes must come clean and in good mechanical condition. (Exception on the mechanical condition would be for bikes coming for storage and service work over the winter--still needs to be clean). Limited amount of room for this, so please reserve ahead of time. Discounted storage fee for work of over $500.00 labor, and FREE storage for the season if your work is totaling over $1000.00 labor (Storage only- you must pay for this in full at drop off). Ask about the specific details for prep. But this is a ride it in, ride it out deal. (Of course I may have time to pick it up and deliver it, if proper arrangements are made for an extra fee- or you can use the trailer and bring it yourself when available)

--Routine maintenance to major engine/transmission work--I have nearly evertything listed prices on this page. (Don’t forget to check out the pictures on the "photo gallery” page) but one cannot possibly really know what parts needs are until one is actually inside the engine!!!

--Receipts and digital pics provided to you with all service work (exception on pictures; any and all "while you wait" work). The typical oe service tune customer receives upwards of 30 pictures over multiple emails with telling stories of what the pictures are showing. there will not be any mistaking what was done to your motorcycle nor why.

CYLINDER HEAD SERVICE-- Valve job, not valve adjustment is very expensive and most current motorcycles do not have valves that can be refaced or butt ground "tipped' to make them still fall in the same shim size range. And OE valves can be very expensive. But one can carefully cut the seats to 3A (like oe) or 5A or even 7A and gain performance back or improve performance. Same goes for matching the seat to the port or the intake boot to the intake port. Loose head can run $400 or more in labor, parts can vary wildly from just new seals and shims at around $200 to 16 new valves/springs/guide seals/retaining washers and e clips plus shims at over $1000 for most and over $2000 for some, and if you need guides as well, it can easily reach $1500+ in parts alone

OEM PARTS and aftermarket parts available. Honda/Yamaha (ordered tuesday by 10am see on friday. see update below for 2022) any other day ordered I see it the following Thurs or Friday typically.... Kawasaki/Suzuki I typically see in 4-5 business days. But anything can be overnight shipped for; ($40-$55 per warehouse typically it doesn’t matter if it is one thing from that warehouse or 100 on hon/yam) (kaw/suz go by value of shipped, so $30.00-$65.00 is typical). So if you are in a big hurry, anything can be possible... 2021/2022 update.... oe parts are generally about 10 -14 days, and some have taken as much as a month and a few rare parts for older bikes have taken a riding season or more!

Hourly Rate is now (april 2023 update) posted as $100/hour-but many of the services I perform at a flat fee and the true hourly is much less. (most everything listed on these pages that has a price next to it is, your cost is just that price regardless of length of time spent)

FRONT OF THE LINE SERVICE--available now @ $250.00/hour (no wait up to 4+ weeks out for an appointment, and I'll have it done within 48 hours guaranteed, or the labor is free, some jobs this will not be available for) You must set this up with me ahead of time, which may require pre ordering parts on some jobs. this is NOT available on all services! (you are basically doubling or tripling the typical labor charge in order to get it "right now")

And again, combining services in one trip will usually get you some discounts on the time I charge...depending on the services.

( ie.... carb clean with valve adjustments often saves at least $75...fork seals with steering head bearings will save you about $50...getting a chain and sprocket kit installed while also getting a rear tire changed will save you about $25.00)

When bringing your m/c in for service work (especially if I am going to have to remove the fuel tank--i.e... carb clean or tune-up work) please bring it with less than 1/2 tank of fuel. (VTX1800, 929RR, 954RR, Stratoliner owners, as empty as possible please as these fuel tanks do not have proper shut offs)

Thank you.

EXAMPLES

A few Examples of some past more "major service";

-That old relic 84 Magna that you bought super cheap or finally are pulling back out of a long slumber now that the kids are old enough for you to get out and ride again. Yeah, The last one I saw needed brake calipers and masters rebuilt, carbs rebuilt with all new parts, then of course the major service tune as everything required work and of course it needed tires..........it was over $2400. Are you prepared to spend what it really needs to be safe and operate smoothly and efficiently so you enjoy your time riding?????? if not- I do not want to even see it, don't waste my time and I certainly won't waste yours

--Recently I had an old Virago700 come in. The guy tried cleaning the carbs himself then paid someone else to do it, and claimed that was all it needed. Well $1900 later it ran and stopped but it still needed a fuel tank as the existing one was all rusty and had been "sealed" atleast once with one of those "kreem" kits that only have about a 50% success rate on rusty tanks. It needed- battery, charging system, valves had zero clearance, the typical old ass virago starter issue with the gears all chewed up, complete carb rebuild, new air filter, oil/filter change to get rid of all that fuel in the crankcase, fork seals and of course it needed the master cyclinder and calipers rebuilt with all new seals etc as they were frozen in place. Since the tank is unobtaneum from Yamaha his only viable solution was to cut off the top of the tank-sandblast the entire thing free of rust and "sealer"- then weld it back together and install a foolproof interior tank sealer (caswell) and then take it to a bodyshop for final grinding, filling and finishing it- which could easily cost as much as the bike is worth...choice 2 was to find a used tank that wasn't full of rust which proved to be an impossible task. So I believe he is doing choice 3 trying to find any tank that can sortof kindof not really fit just to ride it. I suggest before it was even left to throw it in a dumpster and don't waste good money after bad money trying to fix it, but he insisted despite all protest.

Most of these below are atleast 8 years ago or more at this point and would surely cost more now today, both parts and labor

--R6 transmission repair...(loose engine) It was $532.48 in parts and $700 in labor........

--ZX6R replace entire top end and freshen lower end...$1500 labor and $900 in parts--it was a disaster and did require carb cleaning, a new battery etc...(many of the parts were aquired via a donor engine for free). It was maybe a $2000 bike getting about $2500 in work done... why did it need this done you ask..... Customer tried to do his own service work adjusting valves etc and with improper cam timing blew up the engine when he started it afterwards, often paying a professional is the cheapest option!

--FJ1200-Head gasket, base gasket and new rings installed and it was $463.12 in parts and $590 in labor (a bargain considering the valves were adjusted, carbs were "can cleaned" then synchronized and fuel mixture adjusted, oil and filter changed, throttle cable lubed etc... I would not do it for this price again, a matter of fact that labor charge should have been atleast double that)

--FZR600- complete!!! engine freshening, carburetor cleaning, new tires, major service tune, new chain and sprockets. This thing had been neglected and abused. $1,778.25 parts and $1,900 in labor costs....... $3800 on a $2500 bike?!?! did not make sense to me

--ZX6R, race prep from an abused/neglected and crashed wreck. Including AK-20 suspension up front and Penske in the rear, rearsets, race bodywork, major tune, battery, brake lines & pads, brake calipers rebuilt, new Brembo master cylinder, tires, wheel straightening and so much more... it was about $4,000 in parts and $1,900 in labor and about $200 in shipping and wheel straightening..... $6100 into a 8 year old trackbike may seem senseless but he got another 6 years out of it...

--Goldwing 1100 drop engine for the stator and starter to be replaced...$388 in parts, $700 labor.(another motorcycle I was far too kind and it should have been about 1100-1200 in labor)

--VSTAR1100 remove engine to get to front cylinder head, remove head and retap spark plug threads, clean the carburetors, change oil, adjust valves etc... $750 in labor and $285.00 in parts (customer tried doing work himself and failed miserably crossthreading the spark plug)

--GT750 water buffalo- Hone cylinders and new rings and top end gaskets, clean carburetors and get jetting dialed in so it doesn't sieze yet again. Total bill of $1,500 which included about 2.5 hours of dyno time- which is tough on a 2smoker

--FJR1300, transmission repair-adjust the valves while the engine is out and do all the other "major tune up" adjustments as this bike was way under maintained @ 73,000 miles, it also got tires... $1600 in Labor, $1200 in parts (this bike was a mess!! and today it would be atleast $800 more than it was 10 years ago)

--CRF/YZF, 4 stroke dirt bike top end service- replace valves, new rings, rigid hone etc...$240 in parts, $290 labor (CBR250R is about the same, instead of adjusting the valves simple throw them away and install new for around $600--see the pictures page of every CBR250R I have had through the doors, valves are always pounded over!)

--GSXR600; @ 43,000 miles it apparently had not had the valves adjusted even once as it got bounced from owner to owner. finally it simply would not start when hot and had a lack of power. Well all the valves were open by atleast .001" but as much as .005" (super tight for those who do not understand) and even after adjusting them to the proper clearances. Leakage tests showed more than 25% cylinder leakage past the valves on the best cylinder. Engine disassembly revealed serious transmission issues and a broken clutch pressure plate and two of the clutch basket *bolt bosses for the pressure plate springs* missing. Used 17,000 mile engine @$600 delivered , disassembly and inspection and all new bearings and shift forks, adjust the valves and do a major service tune on the entire bike. This ended up being about a $4000 hit this new owner surely did not expect on his $5000 bike purchase that supposedly came with a warranty from the dealer he bought it at. (just for reference- the broken parts alone would have cost more than the new to him used engine, and either way we needed nearly $500 in gaskets and seals... so this was one of those rare occasions where a new used engine was the better deal than fixing what he had. That dealer warranty- he tried to get them to fix it on their 50/50 warranty and it would have cost him over $3000 and all they were going to do was drop in a used engine and hope it was fine. Some warranty... sounds like shyster talk of bait and switch to me)

--ZX6R- supersport race build, including engine R&R. $2,200 labor, nearly $3,500 parts (bike already had clip ons and rearsets and bodywork and suspension)

--FZ07R- engine repair and supersport spec build including R&R engine etc. $2800 labor, around $4000 in parts (slipper clutch, ported head, cams, Ti valves, valve springs, rods, high compression pistons, undercut transmission and more)

--250 Ninja 285 kit and more. basically a superbike internal build with supersport legal external appearance. $2,900 labor plus some sublet and then of course parts...which I would have to go back and look up now as it has been a few years but no doubt it was @ minimum $1k+ in parts

--ST1300 engine transplant.....I wouldn't do it again for anything under $2000 in labor costs on just the exchange- everything else is extra. Honda engineers clearly did not intend the engine to come out or go in fully assembled and even the cases hit the spar frames- Was so frustrating, I am not sure I would do this again even if I had nothing else to do for a month or more in the dead of winter

-- old 83 goldwing, the owner (new to him it seems) has simply thrown used parts at.... no fuel getting to the carburetors and a dead battery, even with a jumper battery the engine barely turns over......... SHOULD HAVE NEVER ALLOWED IT IN THE DOOR ! total piece of crap with no rear brake pads, the backing steel is embedded in the rotor and the pistons won't back off, so it is nearly impossible to move- sent away for free without doing anything more than looking it over and accessing the "throw away" condition and advising of same

- -Another goldwing this one a 1500 that sat outside under a tarp for years, still weeks later and 3 power washings wreaks of mouse shit, and I have not even gotten to pulling the carbs yet, so much broken stuff on this bike it will never be whole (atleast not for less than cost of buying a running good looking one off craigslist) but So much mouse shit ran out of that area I am afraid to even pull the air box and carbs. But a visual showed chewed up wiring to boot........ Another one of those SHOULD HAVE NEVER ALLOWED IT IN THE DOOR, and certainly won't make that mistake again. A whole slew of chewed up wiring under the top shelter- oh joy....

-- Some sort of old Victory something or another that was a gift? or gotten next to free and doesn't run, although the customer said it did, but when they towed it here it wouldn't start and doesn't crank over very fast either, after he sat out there for more than an hour tinkering with it trying to make it start...ugh... it was just supposed to be coming to have the brakes looked at and a general safety inspection. YET ANOTHER BIKE THAT SHOULD HAVE NEVER BEEN ALLOWED HERE!

-- Some 2002 Truimph 955 (former "trackbike") was coming just to have his supplied "new" rear tire installed. Well these "new" tires were date coded from 2002 as well, and deformed, and dry/hard as the concrete on my driveway and they had numerous other issues as well after hanging in the rafters in Vegas heat for all these years... What was to be a "quick and easy" $40 install ended up being a 2 week (waiting for parts 12 days) and $800 affair to sort it all out and make it safe to ride after its 8+ year hiatus from being ridden- requiring new handlebars, new front brake line and two new tires plus all fluids changed

-- HD specific...... the 3 hole fluid change, 6 qts, oil filter.... it has been $80 plus the parts, there have been very few to take more than 75 minutes. Much cheaper than TCHD charges I hear.

-- 80's vintage bikes showing up for carb cleans and still have rubber brake lines and 10,20 even 30 year old tires, often leaking fork seals and brake calipers in need of rebuilding with the master cylinders too...... you really need to expect to have to spend atleast $1500 minimum to bring it up to a safe daily driver level of motorcycle. Hell I have a 98 gsxr750 here currently that came that way and actually was ridden in that will still have a $2600 bill to make it all correct and current on maintenance and safe to ride while being trustworthy to take "anywhere"

-- Goldwing 1800's. Valve adjustment is a huge pain, hell even the air filter access is a huge time committment of removing the top shelter, the cruise control, and much more before you can even see it, no wonder every 1800 I have seen the air filter is plugged solid from neglect and rodents. I have more than doubled the price of this service work on these as a result of the constant fight with them and time they take to do them properly.

Prices can and do vary based on the condition of the bike and accesories. But you can save yourself some money here too.

~Poorly installed Underglow lighting is not cool, especially if there are no connectors to unplug and the bodywork cannot be removed without cutting wires

~Shoddy workmanship is not cool, I so despise when bikes are hacked together where nothing fits

~Zip Ties, duct tape and non oem fasteners are not cool. Even worse is ramming SAE bolts where metric is supposed to go

~18 gazillion random wires run poorly all over the bike are not cool

~belly pans full of dirt, water, oil, rocks and sand are not cool

~Your fork seals have been leaking so long the radiator is full of oil as is the entire wheel assembly, brakes , engine and body panels from the wind blowing it everywhere. You either go pay $5 at the power car wash and clean it thoroughly or expect to pay atleast an extra hour of labor charges for me to do it. Believe me it is far cheaper for you to wash it before bringing it in.

IE.... you have underglows glued to all your body panels and those need to come off for a tune up or oil change and you didn't install plug in connectors that easily plug in and unplug......yes you guessed it-that will cost you extra-atleast a 1 hour charge for the inconvenience and aggrevation of having to repair shoddy workmanship. And if I have to resort to cutting the wires and installing plugs ins, well that will add even further to the bill.

IE 2.... you installed Halos and/or HID lighting and your ballasts and wiring is all over in the way and somehow I am expected to shove them all neatly in somewhere (even though you or your installer did not).....yes you are being charged for every minute of my time to redo all your (or your friends) shoddy work.

IE 3.... you bring me something crashed and all the panels have been taped and ziptied and has a handful of fasteners from who knows what on it (often car parts and cross threaded/stripped). Yes you will be charged more and quite likely if really bad. you will be handed back the panels off the bike with all your crappy cheap fasteners unless you want to pay for the correct fasteners and retapping all those bolt holes and my time to make everything fit like it should (you are far better off to remove it all before coming for service that requires it removed)

IE 4.... You (or your buddy or some previous owner etc) rammed a SAE bolt into your head to hold the frame slider in place of the metric bolt that is supposed to be there, and I have to remove said bolt to get the frame slider out of the way to remove bodywork to work on said bike. You will be charged more, and if by chance the head is trashed from this ignorance, well they are not cheap to buy and even less cheap to install. Same goes for the idgits who do things like this and they are broken or break off when trying to remove them.

You want to alleviate these charges, do not be a dumbass and/or remove all the crap before you bring it in. Then bring it in clean. There is not much worse than working on dirty stuff that has been worked on by some hack where one has to spend more time on the "shit" than the actual service work itself.

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